Savel brain dump in English!

LC meter based on LM311 and PIC16F84 micro controller. 0.0pF – 1uF and 0.0uH – 0.5H range. Quite precise meter.

My Machtech tester is capable of metering the capacitors, but is very complicated to measure short lead capacitors, not speaking about SMD ones. Also, I needed to measure the coils. In www.sprut.de I found some LC meter schematics. It was quite interesting and capable to measure very small values. It is based on the LC generator frequency difference when additional capacitance or inductance is attached. The only precise element in the meter is capacitor. Also, it is possible to use trimmer and set the meter to required level of precision.

The meter is based on LC generator on LM311 and microcontroller PIC 16F84 (16c84). The indicator- standard alphanumeric LCD display. From old Hagenuk cable detector I removed very nice LCD displays with big numbers and symbols. They are as twice as big as normal. The internal jumper JP1 is used to switch meter from nanofard mode to microfarad. It is useful for old schoolers

The meter under the construction:

Original schematics are in the author pages.
Preview of the schematics:

I’ll place this meter and other stuff to standard 19″ rack from some old switch. There is original PSU from the switch. It gives me all needed voltages and is quite powerful.

According to mine idea there will be: LC meter, frequency meter, wide range high frequency functional generator with sweep option.

Lithuanian only blog entry.

Abstract:

I decided to change front fenders for my car. As they are not original, I needed to try if they fit to the car. So one weekend was committed for car repair.

All you need is 3 spanners (wrenches) with metric size 8, 10 and 13. Also philips screwdriver and old blunt knife.

(please wait, it is 600kb animation)

First of all, remove grid with logo of the VW car. It is connected only with plastic retainers (fixers). Then, use wrench number 10 and remove bumper. Pull it to the front ant remove. Do not forget wires- disconnect them.

Now remove plastic protection under the fenders. They are screwed to the body of the car by several screws. Original are number 8, if repaired- then typically replaced with philips type.

Now you can remove the fenders. They are bolted to the body of the car with number 10 bolts and screws. 4 in the bottom and few on the top. One bolt is number 13- where capote is grounded, near antenna. If fender is original, it is glued to the body. Use knife here.

The beginning was the damaged battery from my old video camera. The old battery for it was made from 6 (six!) NiMH cells. The cells were worn out and didn’t hold too much charge. Full loaded battery was emptied in 40 minutes of filming. Also, my mother managed to short circuit the battery and everything finished with lots of fumes and explosions. The original battery for mine camera is very expensive as camera is very old and quite rare. Now I needed to build new battery using cell bought from shop. There is two type of cells which can be used in my battery: NiMH and Li-ion.
I needed either 6 cells of NiMH technology or two of Liion. (Original battery is Li-ion). The price for both types of cells are quite high. The project was closed for a while. Recently I received few batteries from notebooks. They are build in circa 2005 and the cells are quite good. The batteries where discarded due to typical problem- on cell failure. The battery is 14.8V and 4400mAh. Inside there are 8 cells. So the battery organisation is 4×2 and cell is 2.2Ah.

Next stage- proper Li-ion charger for double cell battery. I digged few types of mobile phones, but all of them had only one cell charging controller. The controller is typically made by Benchmarq (now Texas Instruments). From good people, I received two sample chips for dual cell charger. It is BQ2057. And it was very good that I receive two chips. The first chip was damaged during construction. The schematics or the circuit diagram is typical, from datasheet. The transistor I used is from old HDD controller, some PNP, 2A one. Thermistors were from notebook batteries.

The circuit was working, but as it is linear regulator, quite a lot of energy are waisted on regulating transistor. As wall plug is giving about 15V and the current is quite big for 2Ah cells. The transistor is getting very hot. So from old scrap I removed switching mode power regulator (from old LCD monitor stand). It is LM2576-5 (fixed output voltage). I attached trimmer to feedback circuit and regulated output up to 9.4V (assuming that voltage drop on power transistor is about 1V and the battery need to be charged to 8.4 or 8.2V).

Both PCBs were glued together to one small unit. In the upper photo, on the left you can see the charger. I charged 5 pacs of cells. But one morning I found my charger dead- there was hole in the BQ2057 chip. I measured all the voltage around the chip and everything was in normal. It is quite mystical failure. Now I am waiting for new chips and I’ll try to build better charger. (hoping to receive switch-mode charger chips with “all included” version).